What kind of oil should I put in my snow blower?

Oil for a household snow removal machine is one of the main working fluids, responsible for the coordinated and stable operation of the main engine components. To perform its functions, a lubricant must have certain characteristics and contain specific additives. Without them, the liquid will not be able to support the operation of the motor, which is why burrs and other dangerous defects will very quickly appear on its cylinder.

Motor oil for snow blowers must have the following properties:

• the ability to instantly lubricate engine parts at constant extremely low temperatures - the condition of gears and other standard internal combustion engine parts that continuously rub against each other directly depends on this;
• low oil evaporation rate - the lower it is, the lower the lubricant consumption;
• wear protection under high loads - a property responsible for eliminating the formation of burrs and abrasions on the walls of the engine cylinder;
• protection against corrosion – high-quality lubricant prevents the formation of rust spots on the metal parts of the snow blower motor;
• stability to oxidation - the higher this property, the better the liquid interacts with engine components;
• protection against the formation of soot and sludge - high-quality oil for a snow blower should completely evaporate, leaving behind a minimum of waste products;
• the ability to instantly lubricate critical parts and components of a snow blower during a “cold start” of its engine - the wear of rubbing parts depends on this during the period when they have not yet heated up to the optimal operating temperature.

The best lubricating fluids for snow blowers are Husqvarna, Ravenol, Craftsman and Champion. These fluids contain all the additives that guarantee long-term proper operation of the important components of a commercial snow blower.

Which oil is better to choose for a high mileage engine?

If you carefully study the fuel and lubricants market, then you will notice that there are products on sale with identical specifications, which at the same time differ in viscosity and oil base. In other words, for example, a product with an index of 10W40 may be mineral or semi-synthetic, 5W40 will be semi-synthetic or hydrocracked oil, etc.

So, the difference in viscosity and the distinctive properties of one or another oil base in many cases allows you to get rid of the problems that are characteristic of worn-out internal combustion engines. As an example, it can be noted that mineral water, which has an SAE index of 15W40, differs in kinematic viscosity when heated to 100 degrees from synthetic analogues 5W40.

After filling a used engine with such mineral oil at operating temperatures, a thick lubricating film is created, wear protection is improved, the oil pressure in the lubrication system increases, and there is less loss of lubricant due to waste. As a result, the old engine begins to run quieter and smoother on mineral water than on semi-synthetic oils or synthetics.

However, it must be taken into account that some ICE manufacturers specifically recommend using exclusively synthetic-based lubricants in their engines. It turns out that you cannot use a lubricant on a different basis. There have been cases where problems began even after using semi-synthetics in such units, not to mention mineral water.

Let us also add that we should not forget about the fact that, with the same operational properties and characteristics, mineral water, semi-synthetics and synthetics differ markedly from each other in terms of antioxidant and thermal-oxidative resistance.

This means that mineral oil oxidizes faster than others and loses its properties, that is, it simply ages. If we add to this a certain “fatigue” of the engine itself and its systems (injector leaks, coking, etc.), the aging of the lubricant will occur even faster.

For this reason, it is separately taken into account that if a transition has been made from semi-synthetics or synthetics to a mineral base, then it is necessary to further reduce the oil change interval. In simple words, you need to know when it is better to change the engine oil depending on its type, properties and other factors. It is also necessary to carry out the replacement itself correctly.

Changing the oil in a snow blower

Changing the lubricant in most snowblowers looks almost the same. For this purpose, each unit is equipped with a special tank, in the upper and lower parts of which there are necks and lids. The upper neck is the filler neck - it is only needed to fill the machine with new oil. The lower neck - drain - is necessary for draining used lubricant.

Changing the oil on a snow blower is usually a DIY job. To do this, the owner of the snow blower will need a wide container, a watering can, old rags and gloves.

The oil change procedure is as follows:

1. First you need to start and warm up the engine to operating temperature. Along with the engine parts, the used motor lubricant will also heat up. It will become more liquid and it will be easier for the operator to drain it from the tank;
2. After this, you need to smoothly turn off the snow blower’s internal combustion engine and quickly place an old wide container under the drain hole of the tank;
3. Then you need to start unscrewing the standard drain cap. Once the operator has completely unscrewed it, you will need to wait until the old oil drains from the tank;
4. After this, you need to tighten the drain cap and remove the container. By inspecting the used oil, the owner of the snow blower will be able to see how much dust, various metal shavings and other foreign impurities accumulate in the lubricant during the operation of the snow blower;
5. Next, you will need to unscrew the filler cap and fill in new oil for the snow blower. Its operating instructions will tell you how much new lubricant your snow blower needs;
6. At the end, all that remains is to tighten the cap of the standard filler neck, start the built-in internal combustion engine of the snow blower and let it idle continuously for about 10 minutes.

Regardless of which oil is used for replacement - 5W30 or 0W-40, its required quantity is determined solely by the instructions of the equipment manufacturer. If you add too little liquid, there will not be enough of it to effectively lubricate all the rubbing parts of the snow blower’s internal combustion engine. If there is too much lubricant in the system, this will lead to flooding of the spark plug and other parts of the utility unit.

How to choose oil for a snow blower gearbox?

A gearbox is a mechanism that, no less than the engine, needs continuous lubrication. Liquid gear oil is best suited for this purpose. Its main advantage is its excellent interaction with bronze, from which, in most cases, the gearbox is made. Transmission fluid has a homogeneous structure that does not change at low and high temperatures.

It is best to pour oils from Liqui Moly, Wolf and Kroon Oil into the snow blower gearbox. When operating a snow blower under extremely low temperature conditions, oils from the same manufacturers in combination with Xado brand additives show good results. Such lubricants evenly cover the moving parts of the gearbox with a thin but very durable film, which reliably protects them from wear and corrosion.

Types of oils and their features

Oils are divided into three types:

• synthetic;
• semi-synthetic;
• mineral.

Mineral oils are a product of petroleum distillation. Due to the fact that they contain sulfur, these oils increase the oxidizing properties of the metal. Therefore, the final composition of sulfur should not exceed 1 percent. Various additives are added to improve beneficial qualities. The cost of such oils is the lowest.

Synthetic oils are obtained by synthesizing various substances, initially have protective properties, are characterized by lower consumption and resistance to extreme loads and temperatures. Due to the expensive production, the output ends up with a high price tag. However, the quality of these oils is much higher.

Semi-synthetic is an intermediate link, which is obtained by mixing mineral and synthetic oils in a ratio of 70 to 30. They have better characteristics and properties than mineral oils, but are inferior to synthetics. Accordingly, the price tag here is average.

The table below shows the recommended types of lubricants for various engines, as well as their characteristics and costs.

In addition, there are universal lubricants for all types of engines.

1. RAVENOL Schneefraese 4-Takt 5W-30 is a synthetic four-stroke oil. Low evaporation rate ensures low consumption. Protects against corrosion, wear, and soot. Has high resistance to oxidation. Can be used under “cold start” conditions, that is, it quickly and efficiently lubricates all parts of the mechanism in conditions of cold temperature and not warmed up engine. Price for 1 liter 550 rubles. Production - Germany.
2. Oregon SAE 30 is a semi-synthetic oil for gasoline engines, characterized by high cleaning properties and low consumption. Production - USA. Price for 1 liter 420 rubles.
3. MTD SAE 5W-30 is a mineral oil for a 4-stroke engine. Provides a “cold start” and provides good protection against wear and corrosion. Features low consumption. Made in Germany. Price per liter – 600 rubles.
4. Craftsman SAE 5W-30 is a mineral oil for gasoline and diesel engines. Provides a “cold start”, reduces operating noise, ensures fuel economy, and protects against corrosion and wear. Production - Russia. Price for 1 liter 390 rubles.

How to change the oil in a snow blower gearbox?

Manufacturers of snow removal equipment give different advice on how often it is necessary to change the gearbox oil of a commercial snow blower. First of all, you need to determine the intensity and operating conditions of the machine. If it is used every day, and cleaning is carried out in large areas with a large number of high snowdrifts and a thick layer of heavy sticking snow, then the lubricant must be changed every 50 hours. If conditions are more gentle, then the fluid can effectively work in the gearbox for 80–110 hours without replacement.

You need to change the lubricant in a clean, warm room with a flat floor. Before doing this, the snow blower must first be raised to gain access to the lower part of the gearbox.

The subsequent procedure is as follows:

1. First, the car will need to be warmed up;
2. Then the engine must be turned off and the sequential disassembly of the gearbox must begin;
3. First of all, you need to unscrew 4 bolts and remove the protective metal cover located above the mechanism;
4. After this, you need to remove the casing, unscrew 2 more screws and remove the shaft with the pulley;
5. After this, you will need to carefully remove the gear from the shaft. If it does not come off, then this is most likely the result of it sticking to the shaft. Do not hit the gear with a hammer or other hard objects, as this may damage the bronze part. You can put the shaft with the gear in a container filled with a solution for unlocking locks and other mechanisms, and wait about 30–45 minutes;
6. Next, all the gearbox parts will need to be placed in a vessel with clean gasoline - the fuel will clean the elements from carbon deposits, metal shavings and other harmful impurities;
7. While the parts are in a container with gasoline, it is necessary to clean the space inside the gearbox compartment;
8. After this, all elements of the mechanism must be thoroughly dried and installed in their regular places in the compartment;
9. Next, you will need to add new lubricant using a syringe;
10. At the end, all that remains is to put the protective cover in place and screw in 4 screws.

After reassembling the gearbox and adding new lubricant, you need to let the mechanism parts get used to each other. To do this, you will need to start a snow blower and walk around the area with it several times, removing only freshly fallen snow. After this, you can continue to operate the machine as usual.